Agra- From Taj And Beyond
It was 8:00 in the evening and we had been riding through the city for quite some time now, in search of some place to settle for dinner. Reason- Most restaurants were closed on the occasion of Diwali, a trend I found to be rather strange. “This isn’t Mumbai” my friend exclaimed in response of my astonishment.
I was in Agra and this was the first of many surprises that were to be disclosed during the rest of my trip.
By the banks of Yamuna, lies the historical city of Agra that was once the capital of Delhi Sultanate, under the regime of Sikandar Lodhi. Even after Lodhi dynasty ebbed away, the city continued to be seat of the Mughal empire, which successively advanced to power. What remains today is the architectural legacy of the Mughal empire interspersed across the city and nearby.
The mere mention of Agra instinctively brings Taj Mahal to one’s mind and this inimitable monument of love allures millions of tourists every year, from across the world. However; the city offers much more beyond the Taj when one sets for an intensive exploration of its rich history and patrimony.
Like all my travels, even this time, I had not decided on any set itinerary however; I had in mind the places I wanted to explore during my 3 day visit. I came back with mixed emotions and impressions about the city, its people, the tourists, heritage and of course, the Taj Mahal.
Listing down my experiences in the city, both good, and bittersweet.
The Taj Mahal- A Grand Ode to Love
Well, Taj Mahal needs no introduction. Having read and heard so much about the monument of love throughout my life, my excitement had somewhat frizzled out by the time I finally stepped into the city. However, one look at the grand monument and I could not contain my adoration towards it and the sentiments that led to building of this architectural marvel. The entire structure is epitome of rich and intricate artwork that leaves one mesmerized to the core.
Beyond Taj
While Agra’s historical significance dates back to the times of Mahabharata, the city gained its golden age only under the rule of Mughals. I explored the interiors of the old city that are least visited apart from the prominent ones.
The Agra Fort, one of the finest Mughal forts built out of red sandstone and marble represents a small city within its premises with quite a few palaces, mausoleums and gardens. Sikandra is home to grand Akbar’s tomb along with an unknown Lodhi tomb within the site. Tomb of Mariam-uz-Zamani, Chini Ka Rauza, Tomb of Itmad-Ud-Daulah, Aram Bagh (the Persian garden built by Babur) and the black mosque behind Taj Mahal are few structures with varied architectural styles and elements. You may also visit the catholic cemetery to get a glimpse of some beautifully structured tombs, all inspired by Mughal architecture.
People and Goodwill
The most important element of a place is its people. As happens with me all the time, I met some awesome people while on my trip. My rickshaw driver, whom I had hired for 2 days, invited me to the inauguration of a new restaurant that his close friend had opened. Also, the hotel staff where I had stay put, was very helpful. One of them dropped me to Taj Mahal East gate early morning on his bike when I had forgotten to inform my driver about the pickup time.
I cannot thank my stars enough whenever I meet such wonderful people during my travels.
Sheroes – The Real Heroes
A first of its kind, Sheroes’ Hangout in Agra is a quaint café run by 5 acid attack survivors. The restaurant is very tastefully designed with graffiti and trinklets adorning the walls. This place was recommended by a friend and I surely came back feeling overwhelmed. As an initiative of “Stop Acid Attacks” and Chhanv Foundation, the café runs on no-set-price menu. So, you pay whatever you feel like.
That’s one place to spend money a bit generously.
Tourists and Intolerance
“So much money spent on a dead king. That too an invader” blurted out one of the tourists while coming out from Akbar’s tomb in Sikandra. The comment left me appalled. I have, however; omitted the part of the comment which was far more shocking and disturbing. This instant was just the tip of the iceberg and it made me realize the extent to which intolerance has crept into the minds of people.
Travel is not always about good experiences and when it is in your own country, a not-so-positive experience is more than disappointing. While India does have a rich cultural history, the heritage and legacy left behind by former rulers is something we should be equally proud of and not something that has to be held in disdain.
Whom do we hold responsible for such intolerance?
I wish for a blue sky under which people are a little more respectful, accepting, tolerant and humane.
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Howdy folks! This december starts with a bang on my blog as I run a unique bloghop with 28 bloggers to write guestposts for me and each other all this month. I hope my readers will catch all the action and support this drive with their comments and feedback to encourage the writing. To know more about this blog hop in detail, you could catch this post here.
About Dipanwita
Dipanwita is a solo backpacking traveller who loves to indulge in photography too. Being a history buff, she loves exploring untamed roads, veiled cultures and everything that’s almost lost in history. Her travel stories reflect connection with history, culture and people of the places she has been to. Coffee, good books and good conversation can get her going anytime.
A post she would love some traffic on is here
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Loving this guest post series, Shalz !!! I too love Taj. This post has projected its beauty still more.
Thanks Vasantha
Fantastic post. I’ve lived in Meerut and Delhi as a child but never visited Agra! Crazy, but true.
It’s so sad about the current mindset of the majority – how patriotic is patriotic?
True that! “how patriotic is patriotic?” is something that really needs serious contemplation
This was a great post, Dipanwita.
I have heard so much about The Taj Mahal..a lot of it good, but these days also a lot of it unpleasant. Esp. the guides who harass the tourists who come to visit the monument.
Tolerance towards every religion is something our country stands for, but it is not every soul here who follows it. Sad, but true. Why ruin the atmosphere of a place that stands for love?
I second with you on every thought Shilpa. Negative media plays a major role in attributing intolerance is what I feel.
Agra has always been a very romantic place for me. But as you rightly mentioned, its sad to see people harbor adverse feelings. The Sheroes cafe is something i hadn’t heard about. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. Lovely post!!!
The cafe is a place no one should miss. There is a new Sheroes hangout center opened in Lucknow recently.
Liked the lucid writing style. I’ve never been to visit the Taj and unfortunately have never had a desire to visit also. I remember reading about the Sheroes Cafe. BTW, the link to the promoted post doesn’t work.
Thank you Varad. 🙂
The link works good for me though. You may try again
Taj makes you feel awestruck, if only for a moment. I went to Agra twice and both times had a wonderful experience.
I wasn’t very excited at first but I too was left awestruck. The marble work is so intricate.
Your post recollceted my memories of our recent visit to Agra! Its a fab city for sure!
As for the incident, its the mirror of the changing mindset of growing India…its sad and hurts!
Agra is a great city Anagha. I specially liked the locals who are more than happy to help. It is the touts and guides who are a bit irritating but that’s same everywhere I guess.
The regressive mindset certainly hurts though.
Brilliant write up. I visited Agra and well, obviously Taj Mahal nearly 6 years back that too during hot summer! Being very sensitive to hot climate i developed sun burns of my skin instantly and couldn’t enjoy much of my trip to agra and particularly my visit to Taj Mahal! A plan i made recently, a trip to UP, also Taj mahal included in my trip was sabotaged because of my sickness and had to cancel my trip! I hope the day comes soon when I get to visit that magnificent structure very soon again!
This post made me reminisce many memories of my travel back then 🙂
This post really gives a different view of Agra….Cafe by acid survivors is something I have never heard about. This is courageous. Thanks for sharing it Dipanvita.
Love the pics. I mean wow!!!
Agra is fav of mine and I always cherish the place! Taj Mahal being the fav ofcourse 🙂
I and my family are scheduled to make a trip to Jaipur-Agra later this month, and so this post was like manna from heaven for me.
I had already made plans for Sikandra, but was a lil unsure since there wasn’t enough literature on the place. Also, thanks for the info on Sheroes…Will try to make a stop there.
Keep writing.
Cheers,
CRD
Do drop by mine.
I have been there when I was really young want to see the wonders of wonder and also so many other places. Wish to explore the place like you did.
I have been to Agra for many work trips but havent had the opportunity to explore this historic place. Have seen the Taj Mahal as a kid though. Hopefully will check it out on my next visit and Sheroes Cafe will be the first one on my list. Thanks for sharing, Dipanwita!
That’s my birth city, Agra – City of Love, City of Taj. Love reading about it.. took me to childhood days when visiting Taj was always an excitement.